Der Wein der Woche: Später-Veit Domherr Kabinett trocken 2008
Like hundreds of other wine bloggers, we’re going to start, with some semi-regular consistency, a series of posts about what we’re drinking and liking, often from our portfolio. The difference is that this new segment has a German title—Der Wein der Woche just means “Wine of the Week”—and we’re knowingly deluding ourselves into thinking that this title alone separates us from the pack. So, here’s the first act:
The steep, south-facing 5-hectare (12.4-acre) Piesporter Domherr lies at the foot of the slope, near the old part of Piesport (on the map, to the left of “360″ and the bridge) upstream towards the village of Ferres. A Roman press house is located here. Domherr is enclosed on all but one side by the famous Goldtröpfchen vineyard and is one of the core sites of the amphitheater-shaped Piesporter hillside that curves several kilometers and rises some 500 meters above the Mosel.
In the past, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, with the largest holding in Domherr, wanted to buy up the remaining parcels from the smaller winegrowers in order to have a an individual single vineyard à la Vereinigte Hospitien with its steep-terraced Piesporter Schubertslay, which borders Domherr on the one side. But the winegrowers refused von Kesselstatt’s offer, knowing full well the potential of this site.
Domherr is a warm terroir in deep-draining, well-weathered slate. And Heinz Welter prefers to make dry Riesling from his parcel here. He does some skin contact and ferments with wild yeasts. In ’08, he made a Kabinett rather than a Spätlese trocken, but this is not your light, tart-tasting dry Kabi. His tank-aged 2008 Domherr Kabinett trocken reflects the warmth of this stony vineyard with herbs and a real depth of flavor. It hints more to the South with a lightly golden color and creaminess than a cooler clime would, but keeps everything nicely in check with a good spine of acidity to match the substance. There’s a bite to the finish that keeps you asking for more.
Tags: Heinz Welter, Piesporter Domherr, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Später-Veit
